Survival, by definition is "the state or fact of continuing to live or exist, typically in spite of an accident, ordeal, or difficult circumstances". To me, that definition doesn't shout out a very good time or place to be in the bitter cold of winter, while out bikepacking. The very last "mode" I want to be in, is in "Survival Mode".
My only rule is; "Aim to thrive, not survive".
My only rule is; "Aim to thrive, not survive".
To thrive in less than ideal conditions takes practice and preparation. With practice comes experience(s), some of which you will never want to experience again and others, you'll adapt as part of your winter bikepacking system.
System? Yup, you're going to develop a series of steps that allows you to plan and execute winter riding trips that work for you. Your system will be owned and operated by you. It'll work for you and not necessarily for others. It'll be logical, simple and safe. It begins with an inventory of what you HAVE and what you NEED versus what you WANT. Needs and Wants are two very different things. You NEED to stay safe out there, that is priority one. Fingers and toes can freeze-up in a matter of minutes, rendering them useless to you, even to the point of not being capable to feed yourself or do anything for that matter. Once this happens, you've stumbled into survival mode.
Remember; "What get measured, get's managed". So taking inventory of your gear and how you are using it out in the field, is an important step to understanding what works and what doesn't. It might even mean keeping a journal spreadsheet.
Remember; "What get measured, get's managed". So taking inventory of your gear and how you are using it out in the field, is an important step to understanding what works and what doesn't. It might even mean keeping a journal spreadsheet.
In order to develop your system, you first have to consider what type of riding you will be doing most. Are you a winter bikepack-camper that travels slowly through the deep forests and back roads? Do you do mostly long day trips? Or maybe you're gearing up for some Winter Ultra Marathon racing, like Fatbike The Wendigo or the Arrowhead Ultra...? Luckily, each of these riding styles require much of the same gear, however how it is used and when, will differ.
Your boot of choice is only as good as the sock system you use. Moisture build up in the boot can become critically dangerous when your activity level slows and you start to cool down. An example would be riding for many hours and arriving at camp. If you're not still pumping out the body heat at camp, your extremities will start to cool down first. Changing socks or even slipping into some nice camp booties would be ideal. Mitigating sweat build up in the first place if key to happy feet. This involves layering your socks, first with a thin liner such as the Gobi liner (careful they tear easily) and then adding a thicker sock over top, ideally one that isn't too tight of a fit. Blood flow is crucial. As a back up, I always carry with me a vapour barrier liner sock (VBL sock). A VBL will trap any existing heat that you're producing and keep it close to your foot but take note, as a VBL will also trap in the moisture. So, bring extra socks or prepare to "sleep-n-dry" the only ones you brought. My favorite material for a sock is merino wool, mostly because of the soft feel and the no-stink factor.
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| Gobi Liner sock in dark blue and a merino full length midweight sock. |
Boot System
Whether you choose to ride clipless or flats is a personal decision, perhaps based on budget more than anything, but it does offer-up some great discussion as both seem very practical when managed properly. That being said, I ride clipless 90% of the time because I have trained and experienced many conditions that allow me to trust my decision to do so. That being said, I have also had many racers on flat pedals blow past me as if I was standing still. Be not limited by your decisions but by your decision to be limited.
Clipless
In the photo below, a series of my winter riding options are laid out, starting with two of the most common clipless options on the market, the 45NRTH Wolvhammer (2014 model) and the Lake 303's (2012). The Wolv's are warmer, beefier and higher-cut. They are my go-to for ultra racing and general winter training. I wear them 2 sizes larger than my regular xc shoe. This allows for enough room to add a chemical heat pack and not be too restrictive, so as to not compromise blood flow around the foot. As for the Wolfgar boot (not pictured below), 45NRTH's newest piece of footwear weaponry, I've heard good and ok reviews. The good being that the liner is removable and the ok, that they aren't as warm as some riders hoped they would be. Many factors contribute to warmth, as noted below, so I have yet to see for myself how the Wolfgar's hold up in deep cold, but I do like the idea of the liner coming out, especially as a multi-day boot.
The Classic
In the second row from the top, on the left, is your classic Sorel-type winter boot. It's warm, waterproof and has a removable liner. It's also probably what you have at home already and when paired with a gaiter, it might just be your newest and most readily available boot system. Sidenote - gaiters are a must piece. They add warmth and protection, are simple and low-cost. A downfall of the classic winter boot is it can be sluggish, not very breathable and the boot to pedal contact surface can be compromised depending on the soles of the boot. A smoother sole can have a larger contact patch, which is ideal for digging into the pins of a flat pedal albeit walking in any type of slippery or inclined topography will be a challenge. A rugged sole, with large lugs has great hike-a-bike grip but can offer a smaller contact patch since the spaces between the lugs might not touch the pins on the pedal, thus less contact between boot and pedal.
Winter Hiker
The boot that is in the second row, on the right is the Merrell Thermo 6 winter hiker (mid-cut). The winter-hiker style of boot is very popular among fatbikers. Such boots can offer a great fit, be lightweight, with lots of insulation and depending on the model, they can be quite breathable as well. What's difficult to find in this style of boot is a removable liner.
Overboots
An option that is often overlooked are overboots, like NEOS and its many options, from non-insulated (picture below left) and the insulated model (very bottom of picture). NEOS offer a whole other dimension of warmth and protection. What they do is cover pretty much any size footwear and make it waterproof and insulated, based on the chosen model. They can even be studded too. My XXL NEOS can fit my size 46 Wolvhammer boots inside. My XL insulated NEOS can fit my down booties for around camp. I have pedaled at -20C for hours with just my HOOKA ONE trail shoes inside of the insulated model. NEOS open up the doors to more possibilities of footwear configurations, without breaking the bank. They also compress quite well for storage and soles however their soles are very flexible, meaning that pedal efficiency is somewhat compromised.
Other Options
Not pictured below, or discussed in great detail are the following options for footwear that I've come across but not had the opportunity to test.
1. Mukluks, the real deal. Warm & breathable & Cool Looking, yet somewhat pricey and can be flexy underfoot.
2. Overboots (40 below Overflow model). Glued onto existing boot. Does not cover tread rand or bottom of boot (where cold can seep through). Offer superior protection when installed correctly.
3. Baffin (or similar) Polar Rated boots. Very popular among the flat-pedal crowd. Can be lightweight even when they don't look it. Very warm but bulky. Some models have removable liners.
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| Boot Options |
Toes will get cold.
It's quite possible that your toes will get cold, regardless of footwear and sock system being used. Sometimes your feet will freeze up even when you've changed nothing in your system and the conditions are very similar to the last time you were out. One of the simplest ways to re-warm your feet is to get off the bike and walk (or jog) while exaggerating the flex in your walking motion.
These factors are typically the subjective ones, the ones we CAN control or at the very least recognize as 'now out of control'....that is, our amount of sleep, hydration, food intake and so on.
All these factors play a huge role in how we operate in extreme environments and the level at which we can perform at our best.
Your footwear system is only as good/warm/efficient as the amount of time, practice and preparation that you've invested in it and I hope that this clarifies some questions, doubts and concerns about winter bikepacking footwear.
More info:
More often than not, the big picture is full of little pictures. Here are a few links that I've found helpful on understanding the bigger picture of heat loss and gain.
2. Baby It's Cold Outside, online learning certificate (free).
3. Winter Bikepacking by Dave Gray
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| This is what happens when you're not prepared. |
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