A very late write-up about the Italy Divide 2019

A recent post by 3rd place finisher Jay Petervary in the inaugural Atlas Mountain Race had me thinking about my ride at 2019 Italy Divide....Jay made a quick little FB post about his race and noted that he took the time to sit, relax and take in the culture and this had me wanting to be back on the trails, just my bike and I and some many hours spent in the saddle, but also some time chilling around people from another culture, another way of living as they go about their daily lives.
There's no doubt these guys race hard, really hard but the fact JP mentioned the need (or want) to sit and take some culture in, makes me happy about how i performed in Italy last year.

I breakdown a bikepack race in to three 'levels', with of course, the underlying goal of finishing. 

Level 1, The Ride
Everyone does the same route in a bikepack event however, the environmental conditions play a large role in how we 'see' the route. The beauty in this is that we all ride at a different pace and thus our experiences on route are can vary considerably. For some, a hike-a-bike might happen in the wee hours of the night and the singletrack seemed super techy and the fatigue levels were super high but for another rider reaching this same trail in daylight and feeling fresh, could mean it was a highlight section of the entire route. Then there's the weather. Weather systems in any given area means it could be a matter of hours or even minutes that can change a super fast dirt track into an oblivion of mud stuck to the bike and terrible words coming out ones mouth!

On the 2019 Divide, the winners, Sofiani Sehelli and James Hayden were way out front and ended up getting smashed with some snowfall up the mountains, within the last 100k of the route. They froze, they walked, they trudged on and finished together, as conditions meant that staying together was the safest method of travel. As time went on, conditions got better and two days later, when i came through, the temps were still cool at around 0C but the mountain roads had cleared and riding was totally feasible. A totally different experience for me.

I chose Maxxis Ikon 2.2's on my Cutthroat for this event. On the Tour Divide in 2018, i rode Ikon's as well, but on my Fatboy frame with 29er wheels from @wovenprecisionhandbuilts, out of Ottawa, Ontario. I love the Ikon tire. It has never let me down, ever. Many riders were going quite thin on tire choice for the Italy Divide, down to 40mm, is what I noticed...and many had flats. Route-wise, there is some full-on techy, rockie, rooty nastiness but also miles and miles of pavement too.  I always err on the side of bigger tires, for more volume, not only for tough riding but also for comfort, as my Cutthroat is fully rigid. 

Level 2, The Mental/Physical Element 
A quote that I have on some blackboard paint in my bathroom cupboard door says: "Your attention dictates your direction".  There's no doubt that I like to push myself, in everything that I do.
Typically referred to as "type II" fun, the physical and mental challenge of a bikepack event can often be attributed to your attitude. In my line of work, which is Adventure Guide Training at the post secondary level, the most important attribute we teach our students is that attitude will get you through anything. Bad weather, terrible route conditions, poor gear choices, etc, etc... the list can go on for pages, but how you act at any given moment is without a doubt a large contributing factor as to whether we finish something, or not.

On the Italy Divide, I had very few moments of poor attitude, if any, that i can recall...I truly enjoyed the long, steep climbs. I know there are other's out there that also enjoy the climbs, be it a long and drawn-out low grade cruise of an insanely steep grade, that could end up in a hike a bike...to me, it's all good. The large crowds of people swarming our route in the city centers was probably what tested my patience the most. I live in a village of 900 people, in a very rural area, so trying to navigate thousands of people walking, while on my bike, tired, muddy and dirty was probably what 'tested' me the most and in hindsight...not a big deal.

In short, you can smile and laugh, or, you can bitch and moan...the choice is always there...it's up to you to decide on the direction you take.


Level 3, The Experiential Element
By far my favourite aspect to riding in new areas is the immersion into a new culture, or, at the very least, being a passer-by on a bike and getting a sense of daily life in a totally different part of the world. One of the biggest debates I always have with myself is between riding at as much of a race pace that I can sustain or stopping to take in the new cultures, sights, smells and sounds. The aspect of  the race usually takes a back seat for me and the stopping for longer periods of time, to soak in the culture and new experiences, seem to take precedence. I feel that if i was to repeat an event, that race mode would kick-in and the need to stop more and take-in the local fare and culture would take a back seat.

Not returning to an event for a second or third time is what begs me to stop more often than I probably should, especially knowing that I could keep riding into the night. No excuses now that i set up a K-Lite with a SON dynamo....just awesome! 

In Italy, as I passed a cafe or pub I pass, I'd ask myself if I should stop in and see what's going on....to see what it's like to have a beer at that particular establishment. I'd sit in a corner and quietly sip a pint of new brew and watch the locals pop in, the bartender chat with staff and clients and listen to the banter of people in a different language. I love it all and would find it terribly difficult to not stop in and experience new places.

Pizza & Beer around corner. How could you not stop and enjoy this! 

I feel as though I took good advantage of most stopping opportunities in Italy. I sat down and ate at restaurants. I hopped in to small pizzerias and quickly ordered a pie or two and chatted with the staff, who often had just as many questions for me, as I have for them. Tasting local fare and glancing around to see what happens in these tiny villages on a random night of the week is really fun for me and helps me understand different ways of life and it encourages me to gain a greater perspective on other cultures. Travel kills all prejudice (I think Mark Twain is quoted saying something along these lines...).

Naples (Mt Visuvius in background)

As I type out this blog post, almost a year later (yup, true story), I cannot help but share my sympathy for all Italians as they cope with devastating hardship and loss during the COVID19 outbreak. It's impossible to imagine what it is like there now compared to a year ago, when the sun shone bright on every little village I rode through and people were out and about their daily lives, working, shopping, playing...living a normal life. Not now though, not even close and as COVID19 sets in on the rest of the world, as we all take shelter, away from one another, within the confines of homes, it is painful to realize that a new normal is taking shape and that the end is unknown. We don't know how all this will unfold in a month, 6 months, or even a year from now but what we can do, is adjust our attitude so that it points forward. We can continue to strive toward the top of the next massive climb and peer over the summit in hopes that brighter, healthier days lie ahead of us.

Until next time, #grindon.

I'd like to thank:
Giacomo/Jack, the organizer/route planner of the event. Great job!
Zeno's and his family for picking me up at the finish and hosting me overnight at their home. So kind and I hope that you're all well during this epidemic.
Woven Precision Handbuilts for their incredible carbon wheel builds and hubs.
Thief Bikepacking Bags for endless supplies of feedbags, frame bags and stickers!

Tour Divide 2018 - Post Ride

The start, in Banff, with Crazy Larry. 

I'm glad I decided to do the Tour Divide. It had been on my list for far too long and things lined up nicely to get it done this year. I did very little "extra" or intense training leading up to the TD, but rather I came into it very rested and without injury or illness. Someone once said, it might of been Lance Armstrong, that; "it is better to be over rested than to be over trained for big events"...I went with that advice and it seemed to work well for me.
For gear preparation, I was not at all worried or unsure about anything. I've had some practice over the years, in variable conditions, right down to enduring -40C/F during some Fatbike Ultras and going to university (mostly riding and skiing) in British Columbia for six years. The intense heat and super long climbs were tough to prepare for here in Ontario, Canada, but I knew they were coming, both heat and climbs, so I prepped as best I could, mostly mentally.

I had a blast the entire time. Sure it was tough, long days in the saddle, a little wet and cool in the first week and insane, record breaking heat in the last week, but that is what you sign up for - the 'epicness' of it all. 

Highlights of the ride include the everyday wildlife encounters, from large moose to small little critters dancing between my wheels. I enjoyed the endless hours being alone in the middle of knowhere, wondering what was around the next corner. I looked forward to riding into the many different communities and chatting with other riders on the tour, or some of the locals who had information to share about the area, or updates on the route. 

It was always a good time at a local brewery or pub, people-watching for a little bit, tasting the local fare and leaving with a full belly of food and riding into the night while scoping out a sweet spot to camp, or finding only a shitty spot, but being too tired to care! 

I learnt that I can push myself quite hard in this kind of event, both physically and mentally but that I still have room to push deeper, should I choose to do so. I rode hard, but not to the point of killing myself, as a goal of mine was to also enjoy every aspect of this 'race', including the people I would meet and the landscapes that I would pass through. I feel that I blended the riding and enjoyment factors quite well. I know that if I should return, I could put my head down a little more, dig deeper each day, and perhaps cut off a few days, making better time overall. ...we'll see. 

My body and mind held up very well during my 24 days on the bike. My only complaint being my left knee that bothered me for about 9 days, until I used some Tech-Tape to fix the issue, and also, more stretching each morning, midday and night.

I was comfortable the entire time, both while riding and while sleeping. I feel as though I packed enough for the cool to cold range (0C to -5C) and that i was sufficiently packed for cover from the sun and heat (up to 45C!). My two favorite peices of gear on this trip were my sun sleeves/legs and my Gore-Tex socks. Both of these items were crucial in being comfortable. 

Using the sun sleeves and legs for sun protection, on this trip, was at an all-time high. I wore these items almost every day, unless it was a full-on rain day, where I'd be wearing my Patagonia Storm Chaser rainshell (awesome and superlight). 

It was another goal mine to come of this ride with little to no signs of sun tans and definitely not a sun burn and I was successful. 

The Gore-Tex socks by Rockie Wear are incredible. This peice of gear was new to me as of April 2018. I always wore vapour barrier socks instead, but I realized that the gore tex sock will offer more durability and protection for little to no weight penalties. I made the right decision. I wore the waterproof for the entire first week, as it was rainy and cool, to the point where some people were getting really cold feet/toes on the long and fast decents, having to stop. Another bonus is that your base layer socks (mine were lightweight merino wool), never got wet and thus, I only had to bring one pair of socks with me on the tour. 

Lately I've been thinking about what I would not bring with me next time, mostly in order to save some weight, but I am at a standstill as to what it would that I remove from the kit. ... I did take with me a very lightweight lonsleeve sun shirt from Outdoor Research and a light pair of 3/4 shorts. These I used at the end of my ride, as casual clothing for the trip home...

I could remove my thin fleece boxer shorts and thin merino t-shirt from Specialized, but these were fantastic to have at night, for sleeping and getting out of my riding kit, in order to keep my Mountain Hardwear Ghost Spark -2C down sleeping bag a bit cleaner and functional. 

I did have way too much food at the start. I was carrying enough snacks for almost 4 days, which weighed about 5 or 6 pounds. 

I had two jackets...a Castelli wind shell (125g) and my Patagonia rain jacket(250g)...however I used my wind shell almost every day, as it was the perfect peice for cool mornings and chilly evenings.

My Top Fives of what worked well for me:
1. Gore Tex socks
2. Sun legs and sleeves
3. Lauf Carbonara front fork
4. Specialized fatbike frame with 29er wheelset, for clearance
5. No stove

What I would change/didn't work well for me:
1. I'd strongly consider a dynamo front hub to minimized battery usage
2. Less food off the start
3. Remove a shirt and pair of shorts
4. I'd strongly consider not bringing the 7 maps of the route...
5. I would bring a second Garmin GPS with the route loaded onto it, like my 520 or similar. 

Clothing - Tour Divide 2018 (L to R) Smith Overtake Helmet with Petzl 250 lumen Actik light, Black Diamond Eon 500 lumen light was on my barness, Rhyme shoes, Windriver UL folding pack (stored away when not carrying xtra food), Smartwool Merino short sleeve jersey, OR sun shirt, Specialized merino T, Smith sunglassed, PI riding cap, OR sun hat with neck shades. Top center: OR 3/4 shorts, GORE bibs, PI sunlegs in bright white. Storm Chaser shell in blue, Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody in burnt orange, Castelli wind shell in white, Grey OR sun sleeves, Merino socks, Gore Tex socks, long compression socks (did not bring), Shimano Windstopper gloves, riding gloves, blue Gore Tex shell mittens, CRAFT beanie and neck buff. 

Sleep system: Sea to Summit UL non-insulated pad (400g) , MSR Carbon Reflex 1 tent (1.5 lbs) and MTN Hardwear Spark -2C down bag (1.5 lb). Total weight is under 4lbs. 

Repair/food/other: L to R: zip ties, mini pump, Almond butter, body wipes, route maps and cue cards, repair parts, tent poles, VEGA nutrition shakes, dehydrate meal (did not bring with me), Toothbrush kit, batteries, more repair parts (all fit inside a SMITH sunglass case), 1 light blue battery stick (as a back up, did not ever use it), 100L of water purification tabs, bagged beef jerky, rice and instant coffee/electrolyte powder. Not shown is roughly 20 energy bars, candy, etc... In hindsight, it was a bit too much food on the start. I would bring/use the VEGA type proteins/carb powders a lot more as instant fuel. 

The Grand Depart with Crazy Larry sending us off! 

It might look like this is nearing the end of the tour, but this only at midday on day 2, at the MacDonalds in Fermie, BC. Be ready for mega sticky mud! I lucked-out by using my fatbike frame and a set of Woven Precision carbon 29er wheels with Maxxis Ikon 2.2's, which offered incredible mud clearance. I never had to walk my bike because of mud build-up.